Blame the Kardashians. The sisters have sported contour makeup for years and have, more or less, introduced many people to the wonders (and pitfalls) of wearing contour makeup to create shadows and highlights on the face and bring out your bone structure. On camera this makeup can appear flawless, no matter how many layers of concealer, bronzer, and highlighter are added to the face. But heavy contour makeup usually doesn’t translate to a great daytime, real-world look. What appears beautiful from far away can look stripey and unnatural up close.
Contour makeup has evolved a bit over the last few years. As we enter a phase where more natural makeup looks are being sought after, makeup artists are adapting contour to suit a variety of lifestyles (not just glam reality stars filming from their home). A few simple changes to how you apply contour makeup can create a more lifted, fresh look. Makeup Artist Mary Winkenwerder shares three contour tricks that professional makeup artists say will make you look years younger.
Choose cream makeup for longer-lasting contour
If your youth-enhancing contour is something that works for your overall appearance, choose cream makeup over powders for a fresher finish, says Winkenwerder. “For longer wear, use cream makeup in your contouring routine and blend well (Always clean your brushes between uses.),” Winkenwerder says. “Think of a cream makeup contour as makeup perfection on auto-pilot. Cream makeup also makes it possible to sample all the new and exciting makeup application trends on social media without additional absorbent expense. Plus, cream makeup makes fusing liquid highlighters and other corrective color makeup fast and carefree.”
Two lines build better cheekbones
“Yes, it’s true, a dark line right under the natural cheek line is the first step in building feature definition in the mid region of the face,” Winkenwerder says. “For this contouring, use a dedicated contouring wand, solid stick foundation, or cream makeup (something like traditional pan foundation) in a shade that is up to four shades darker than your normal all-over shade. The line should start right at the bottom curve of the ball of your cheek, go under the natural cheek line, and back in an upward diagonal line toward the top of the natural jawline. Draw a line in a lighter tone immediately above the entire length of the dark defining line. Blend the dark line downward in a small circular motion (the entire line), and the light line upward in a small circular motion (the entire line). You’ll notice a clear definition point starting to take place. Build lighter contouring color on the cheek, while building darker shading under the cheek for continued definition. Apply your foundation and other pigmented makeup as normal.”
Two lines, a little shading, and one defining look that makes you look younger, instantly, according to Winkenwerder.
But remember: if you’re not used to contouring, this will take some time to master in a routine. In other words: it’s better to practice contouring ahead of time than to try it right before a big event — the chances are high you won’t love the outcome the first or second times around.
Connect the dots
Another trick to try: instead of drawing line below your cheekbone and above that, try using dots when drawing out contour areas.
“Using dots minimizes the shading on or around desired targeted areas,” Winkenwerder says. “If you use deep tones to amplify a certain feature area, instead of drawing lines, apply dots (with your deep tone contour makeup) where you would normally draw contouring lines. Next, blend the dotted line with a dense makeup brush (a flat-topped foundation brush works best) in a small circular motion until there is a noticeable defining line. You can use this technique with all the tones used to create your best contouring finish. If you want to illuminate your contour, alternate flesh-toned contour color dots with highlighting makeup dots and blend well with a flat-top foundation brush in a very small circular motion. Apply sheer foundation and other pigmented makeup as normal.”
Contour makeup application doesn’t have to be wizardry. A few easy tips and great cream products, along with patience and practice, can help you create the youthful, glowing look you’re after in no time.
