3 Skincare Ingredients Derms Say You Should Never Use If You Struggle With Dark Spots

Dark spots, otherwise known as hyperpigmentation, are such a common skin concern that it’s no surprise how many lasers, cosmetic procedures, and both high-end and drugstore skincare products there are on the market to address it. While the banquet of possibilities may feel like a blessing to anyone who wants to get rid of these spots, they can also present a few too many options, which leads to overwhelming confusion. Exactly which ingredients can help and are there any that can actually make dark spots worse? 

Hyperpigmentation happens when the skin creates too much melatonin. The most common causes of dark spots include exposure to UV light, scarring, and aging. It’s a notoriously stubborn issue to treat and one that can take time and patience. One thing that won’t help? Using the wrong ingredients. These are the three skincare ingredients dermatologists say you should never use if you struggle with dark spots. 

It isn’t common for a skin expert to recommend laying off retinol, an ingredient that is considered a gold standard in skincare. But if your goal is to address dark spots, this powerful exfoliants can do more harm than food is your skin is already sensitized, says Dr. Cory Gaskins, a dermatologist and the resident medical expert at BestBotox.ca. Like, salicylic acid, another powerhouse ingredient, can do wonders to help clear up acne, but both ingredients can leave you more vulnerable to the darkening effects of UV light.

“You will need to use a good sunscreen to ensure that you won’t get hyperpigmentation from these ingredients,” Dr. Gaskins says. “You should also always patch-test to make sure that the ingredient is compatible with your skin.”

Dr. Anna Chacon, a dermatologist and writer at MyPsorasisTeam says it’s best to avoid medications and skin care products with ingredients that can cause photosensitivity. “Here are the ingredients that can cause photosensitivity: Retinol/Retin A, Benzoyl Peroxide, and Alpha Hydroxy Acids/AHAs,  – this include glycolic acids, lactic acids, citric acids, etc. Additionally, it is also best to avoid perfume and fragrance as well as too much Vitamin C. If you want to get rid of dark spots and prevent them from coming back, I suggest that you stay away from these ingredients completely. If it is impossible to avoid, you may use them at the time of the year when the sun isn’t strong. Additional recommendations include avoiding the sun, wearing hats and protective clothing, take advantage of the shades, and wear sunscreen.”

As Dr. Chacon mentioned, skincare products that contain fragrance aren’t just potential irritants if you have sensitive skin. They can have a direct effect on hyperpigmentation, as well. 

“Fragrance can actually activate melanocytes (the cells that produce pigment) and make your dark spots worse,” Dr. Gaskins explains. “This should be avoided as much as possible for all skin care products.”

It may seem like every single ingredient mentioned is present in every single effective skincare product. Perhaps you are left wondering what to even use for dark spots. The solution, says Dr. Chacon, is Hydroquinone. 

“Hydroquinone is considered to be the gold-standard when it comes to treating hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Chacon says. “Hydroquinone helps to fade patches of darker skin by inhibiting melanin production in the skin. It’s typically used as a targeted spot treatment to fade dark spots, melasma, or patches of pigmentation. Hydroquinone should be used cyclically and under the care of a dermatologist or healthcare provider for best results.”

Before starting any new skincare regimen that includes powerful ingredients, be sure to visit your dermatologist to discuss your concerns and come up with the best personalized plan.