Vitamin C
Hyperpigmentation, Blake says, is the result of the buildup of scar tissues and increases in melanin levels resulting from sun exposure, acne, hormones, inflammation or other traumas to the skin. As an essential and ubiquitous part of many anti-aging beauty routines, vitamin C is a common ingredient often found in many serums, moisturizers and other products. Blake explains that vitamin C (specifically L. ascorbic acid) “has been effective at treating hyperpigmentation while being a potent antioxidant.” Also, she says, it “promotes collagen production and revitalizes the skin while combating free radical damage.” Rahman adds that this ingredient helps “brighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation by lending its antioxidant properties to skin and helping boost skin health.” Vitamin C serums can be incorporated into most skincare routines and used once a day in the morning!
Retinol
Often dubbed a wondrous way to prevent more wrinkles and age spots from forming, retinol has many anti-aging benefits. As experts note, when applied topically, this ingredient can greatly aid skin suffering from hyperpigmentation. “Retinol is a must-have ingredient, especially for skin over the age of 40,” Rahman says. She notes that it helps resurface, brighten, and even out dark spots or hyperpigmentation. “A type of retinoid made from vitamin A, retinol, permeates the epidermis to help neutralize free radicals and boost collagen production,” adds Rahman. “Retinol usage is a marathon, not a sprint, and long-term usage will show the best results.” Gronich says that “many women opt to start retinol creams at this stage because of the collagen stimulation they can provide,” but urges that it’s critical to “not overuse these because they can compromise the skin barrier and create dryness,” (which is already an issue for skin as we get older).
Glycolic Acid
As we age, our collagen production slows down, and products with gycolic acid as an ingredient can help boost this essential protein for a more youthful complexion. This common serum ingredient has many skincare benefits like smoothing fine lines and improving your face's tone and texture. Rosen defines it as a type of “alpha hydroxy acid that helps to remove the top layer of skin cells, revealing smoother, brighter skin.” Glycolic acid is great for exfoliating the skin, Thomas adds, a it helps to speed skin healing which can help reduce hyperpigmentation. “This ingredient is able to penetrate the skin well, and works to dissolve lipids that hold the top layer of skin together,” she says. Glycolic acid, Thomas continues “encourages new skin cell renewal which can help to reveal the new skin, promoting a more even skin tone overall.”
Hydroquinone / Kojic Acid
This skin-lightening agent is a skincare ingredient that has been long credited to “reduce the appearance of dark spots,” as Rosen says. While Blake acknowledges its popularity and effects, she says she prefers using Kojic acid as opposed to hydroquinone, since the latter is often said to cause inflammation in more sensitive skin types. She dubs Kojic acid as a “safer alternative to hydroquinone” for anyone with sensitive skin. “It is a by-product of fermented soy sauce and rice wine is often used in food production as a natural preservative,” Blake says. “Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity and effectively depigments and evens out skin tone.”
Overall these two ingredients, like the others in this list, can be found in over-the-counter skincare products, or they can be prescribed by a dermatologist in higher doses, as Rosen notes. “It's important to confer with your health provider or dermatologists before moving forward with treatment,” she says, and we couldn’t agree more.