Every eye shape is unique and beautiful in its own way. Hooded eyes — aka bedroom eyes — are celebrated as the most mysterious of eye shapes, but they are also one of the most notoriously challenging when it comes to eye makeup application. With hooded eyes, the upper lid is more prominent than the lower lid and can sometimes hang over the lower lid. This means the space you have to apply shadows and liners to your lower lid is minimized, so most of those smoky eye and dramatic winged eyeliner YouTube tutorials you see everywhere will just result in you applying makeup to your lid that kind of vanishes the moment you open your eyes. Frustrating, to say the least.
But this doesn’t mean you are closed out from the vast and wonderful world of eye makeup — it just means you need a better technique that works specifically for hooded eyes. Eye contour isn’t just a phrase imagined by Kim Kardashian — it’s an actual eye makeup technique that opens up the eye and makes it appear as if your lids are more prominent. Not only is it perfect for hooded eyes, but it requires the same amount of time you’d need to apply the makeup you’re currently applying, but in this case you’ll actually see the results you want. Get ready to take your hooded eyes to a new level you never thought possible. Here’s the anti-aging contour trick that’s perfect for hooded eyes.
Why should you contour hooded eyes?
You may be used to hearing about contour makeup with regards to cheekbones, but a similar rule applies to the eyes. “To put it simply, the contour trick means creating the illusion of depth on a part of your eyelid that doesn’t naturally have depth. ie. your hooded eyelid,” explains Kerrin Jackson, a film and tv makeup artist with 4 Emmy nominations, and creator of the website The Makeup Refinery. “By using the right product and the right brush, you can very quickly and easily create this look on your own hooded eyelids.”
Contouring your hooded eyelids also helps to make them appear younger in many ways, Jackson say, mainly by creating definition of your eye shape and form and softening the loose skin that forms your hooded eyelid. “By using a shade that’s slightly darker than the skin on your eyelid, you can help make that skin recede,” Jackson says.
If you’re the type of makeup minimalist who blanches at the thought of Kardashian-style makeup, don’t worry — this is an office-friendly look.
“In recent times has been popularized by the likes of Kim Kardashian, and taken to the extreme by way of social media, but applying it in a very subtle and natural way, can really help to create the illusion of ‘lift’ and depth on your eyelids,” Jackson says.
One contour trick: banana eyes
One of the most popular tricks for hooded eyes is the "banana" technique, according to Beauty Expert Sunica Du of SunicaDesign.com. “It involves applying a matte, light-colored eyeshadow to the center of your eyelid and blending it up towards the brow bone. Then, use a darker shade to the outer corner of the eye and blend it into the crease. This creates the illusion of a lifted, more open eye,” Du says.
The banana technique gets its name from the shape of the eyeshadow application, Du explains. When applied correctly, the light-colored eyeshadow in the center of the eyelid and the darker shade in the outer corner of the eye create a curved shape that resembles a banana. It works by creating a contrast between light and dark shades. “This contrast helps to make the eyes appear more lifted,” Du says. “Additionally, the light-colored shadow brightens the eyes and shows an awakened look.”
In addition to the banana technique, other tricks to lighten your hooded eyes include using a shimmery highlighter on the inner corners of your eyes can help to brighten and open them up and applying eyeliner on the upper lash line can define the eyes and create a more energetic appearance, Du says.
Other tips for hooded eyes
Now that you have an expert-approved contour trick under your belt for hooded eyes, how can you continue to apply your makeup so that you are playing up this gorgeous feature and making the most of it? Jackson says to keep these two tips in mind:
** Foundation: “Try to keep your foundation or eye primer makeup minimal,” Jackson says. “Adding product will not necessarily help you, and only cause the skin to look ‘heavier.’”
** Matte trumps shimmer: A little shimmery in the form of a highlighter is one thing; all-out glittery eyeshadow is another — and is best to avoid if you have hooded eyes. “Use matte eye shadows (and not shimmer or sparkly) on your eyelids,” Jackson says. “Shimmer and sparkle products can give a highlight effect, and can end up doing the opposite of what you are aiming to do with your eye makeup. They do this because light reflects off the shimmer/sparkle materials, and hence gives it the appearance of being larger, and protruding more than it actually does. By using a matte, eye shadow that is slightly darker than your skin tone, you can create the opposite effect.”
** Don’t go too dark: Even though it may seem like the right choice to use a dark/charcoal eye shadow shade, Jackson recommends avoiding anything too black, gray or charcoal in tone. “These can look very unflattering on the eye if applied without a light hand,” she stresses. “A warmer shade, or a true taupe, is far more flattering than a cooler brown tone.”
Bottom line: hooded eyes are glam and gorgeous (just ask celebs like Taylor Swift, Blake Lively, Lucy Liu, and Jennifer Lawrence). Contour eye makeup will play them up and show them off.
