Shade & Placement Are Key
The most important trick for achieving the perfect application is ensuring the proper shade and location of your contour, explains Figueroa. Most people fall into the trap of drawing a line beneath their cheekbones and blending down to create a sharper line, but this may actually cause you to look older than your intention. “You want to avoid dragging your contour down and adding too much contour by the temples as it will make your face appear more sunken in,” she warns. “You always want to lift the face by placing the contour by your ear and work horizontally to blend up towards your cheek bones.”
This placement, blending horizontally, will create more natural definition than a diagonal contour, and avoiding harsh lines is essential for not inadvertently aging yourself. “[This technique] mimics the way the shadows naturally hit your face and placement is key with contour. If you apply contour too harshly or even at a diagonal from your hair to the corner of your mouth it may age you,” notes Figueroa. Using a cream contour or liquid formula will help the product to blend more evenly into your skin as well, lending to the natural appearance that will simultaneously have an anti-aging effect.
As for choosing the perfect shade of your contour, Cole suggests going for something only slightly darker than your foundation for the most effortless glow. “For a natural look, select a darker matte contouring shade within 1-2 shades of your base foundation shade. Take your time when blending, for a seamless look,” she suggests. Both experts agree that it’s best to slowly build up the product, as too much can appear garish and harsh. “Less is more with mature skin and it can also be hard to blend. You want to pick the correct shade of contour based on your skin tone,” adds Cole.
Contouring can be a tricky step to master, but being careful to blend slowly and horizontally across your cheeks with a slightly darker shade than your foundation will help to create the most natural and flawless shadow that will easily turn back the clock on your appearance. Applying contour on the nose and jawline are accessory options that aren’t necessary for an ageless appearance, so you’ll have the best luck mastering a natural contour at your cheekbones before taking that leap. But remember, less is more.