Navigating the world of skincare ingredients can feel overwhelming. From apps and influencer recommendations to endless online lists, many of us are left wondering what’s truly safe to use. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dray is cutting through the confusion with a straightforward approach: the key isn’t avoiding every so-called “bad” ingredient, but being mindful of your skin, your allergies, and where you apply products.
According to Dr. Dray, the number one reason to be vigilant about skincare ingredients is if you have an established allergy. Known as allergic contact dermatitis, this can occur even with products you’ve used for years. Those with atopic dermatitis, eczema, or certain occupational exposures—like frequent wet work—are at higher risk. Symptoms often appear in delicate areas such as the eyelids or neck, but any area can be affected. Dr. Dray emphasizes that patch testing with a board-certified dermatologist is the most reliable way to pinpoint the culprit ingredient so you can avoid it safely.
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Location Matters
Even if you don’t have an allergy, where you apply your products can dramatically affect how your skin reacts. Areas with thin skin, skin-on-skin contact, or friction—like the eyelids, underarms, groin, under the breasts, and between the buttocks—are more prone to irritation. Moisture and friction in these areas can compromise the skin barrier, making active ingredients more likely to cause problems.
The Big Three Ingredients To Use Caution With
Dr. Dray identifies three categories of ingredients that can be particularly irritating in sensitive areas:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – This group includes glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. While great for exfoliation, AHAs can irritate thin or occluded areas.
- Active Vitamin A (Retinoids) – Prescription forms like tretinoin, trifarotene, adapalene, and cosmetic forms like retinol or retinaldehyde are effective for skin renewal but can be harsh on eyelids, neck, and underarm skin.
- Salicylic Acid – Another popular acne-fighting ingredient that can lead to irritation when applied to delicate areas.
Even benzoyl peroxide, a widely used acne treatment, should be applied with caution. Dr. Dray notes it’s best used in rinse-off products like cleansers rather than leave-on forms in sensitive zones.
A Safe Alternative: Petroleum Jelly
For those experiencing irritation or unsure about allergies, petroleum jelly is a dermatologist-recommended staple. Free of most common allergens, it’s gentle on the skin, protects against moisture-related irritation, and can be used as a lip balm or barrier cream in sensitive areas.
Pregnancy, Breastfeeding, and Skincare
Dr. Dray also addresses common concerns about ingredient safety during pregnancy and breastfeeding. The majority of topical skincare products are safe, with the main exception being active forms of vitamin A, which are avoided out of an abundance of caution. She emphasizes that there’s no evidence topical ingredients disrupt hormones or harm the baby during pregnancy or lactation when used properly.
The bottom line
The truth about skincare ingredients is simpler than the internet makes it seem. If you have a confirmed allergy, location-specific irritation, or other skin sensitivities, proceed carefully and consult a dermatologist. Otherwise, the majority of ingredients—including those flagged by apps and influencer lists—are safe for everyday use. Dr. Dray’s message is clear: focus on your skin’s unique needs rather than chasing fear-based rules, and you’ll avoid unnecessary irritation without overcomplicating your routine.
