“Sometimes people layer serums and then lotions and then another cream on top,” shared Board-Certified Dermatologist Elaine F. Kung, who is the founder of Future Bright Dermatology. “Through this process, they can be sealing slightly comedogenic ingredients with waxes, silicones, or petrolatum making the layers comedogenic. For example, I had a patient who came into my office with hundreds of clogged pores. We reviewed her skincare, which was a line of products made of jojoba oil. She had lotions, creams, and sunscreens all containing jojoba oil, which has a comedogenic rating of 2. After telling her this, she stopped this line of products and all her clogged pores disappear without a single acne prescription from me.”
On that same note, Dr. Kung warns that although there are face oils that are low on the comedogenic scale (1 or 2), layering these face oils when you are an oily-skinned person may cause blackheads. “Or using face oils and then slugging it with a cream or ointment with petrolatum, lanolin, and beeswax may also clog pores even if the face oils used are considered non-comedogenic,” she said.
Moral of the story: just because a skincare routine is trendy, doesn’t mean it’s right for your skin.
Not Washing Your Face With a Cleanser (Especially In The Morning)
Somewhere along the way, another trendy piece of advice popped up: one about not washing your face in the morning with a cleanser, or just splashing it with water and going about your day. “After layering on some products at night, some people start their day by not washing their faces with a cleanser,” Dr. Kung said. “Even though we aren't outside in our sleep, we still secrete sebum and may be even sweat a little overnight. We should wash off the overnight products that are sitting on our faces before piling on daytime products.”
Using Harsh Physical Exfoliators
It’s not that physical exfoliators like scrubs or beads don’t have their place, it’s that over-exfoliating or using harsh scrubs can rev up oil production and make blackheads worse.
“The best way to get rid of blackheads is by using an exfoliator and cleanser that are formulated for your skin type,” Said Dr. Alberto de la Fuente Garcia, and I'm a board-certified dermatologist at VIDA Wellness and Beauty with over 15 years of experience. “Exfoliating with a gentle scrub once or twice a week helps remove dead skin cells, dirt, sebum, and other impurities from the surface of your skin that can lead to blackhead formation. Additionally, using a gentle cleanser and being sure to remove all traces of makeup before going to bed are important steps in preventing blackhead formation.”
Seek Professional Extractions
Thought it may be tempting to take matters into your own hands and squeeze those blackheads yourself, it’s good to know when to turn to experts who can skilled at carefully removing blackheads without increasing risks like scarring. “If you already have blackheads, one of the best options is to go for a professional extraction,” said Dr. de la Fuente Garcia. “This involves using special tools to safely remove the blackheads from your skin and can help reduce their appearance. Dermatologists will also follow this up with a deep-cleaning facial to remove any other impurities from your skin. In some cases, they may also apply antibacterial creams or solutions, or suggest an at-home treatment plan to help keep blackheads away.”
And what about pore strips? Are they safe to use? The answer is: sometimes, yes — but overuse isn’t a great idea when it comes to this method.
“Pore strips work by sticking to the skin and pulling out the dirt and bacteria that are clogging your pores; meanwhile, clay masks absorb excess sebum and help draw impurities out of your pores,” said Dr. de la Fuente Garcia. “However, it’s important to note that these treatments may not be as effective as a professional extraction and can sometimes cause irritation or dryness. It’s best to use them in moderation, or speak to a dermatologist before trying any of these methods.”