Whether you’re new to the world of skincare and exfoliation or just want to learn more about BHAs, AHAs and the difference between products labelled with these terms, we’ve got you covered! We reached out to dermatologists and skin health experts to learn more about BHAs in skincare, which skin types suit them best, and what their purpose is regarding anti-aging beauty.
Read on for tips, suggestions and insight from Dr. Anna Chacon, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and writer at My Psoriasis Team and Dr. Reid Maclellan, M.D., M.M.Sc., founder and CEO of Cortina, Adjunct Faculty at Harvard Medical School and director of Proactive Dermatology Group.
READ MORE: Here’s How Often You Should Actually Be Exfoliating For A Smoother Complexion
First Off, What Are BHAs?
A BHA, Maclellan explains, is a "chemical exfoliant for the skin." BHAs, commonly known as beta hydroxy acids or salicylic acid, "sink into the upper layers of the skin and lift away dead skin cells to reveal healthy and radiant skin," he adds. BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning they can penetrate pores.
This is how they differ from AHAs, Chacon notes, since AHAs are "water-soluble," whereas BHAs are "oil-soluble." This ultimately means that AHAs "work on the skin's surface, whereas BHAs work both on the surface and within the pores," Chacon points out. She adds that both are "common ingredients in beauty and skincare products and are chemical exfoliants that aid in the removal of dead skin cells from the top layer of your skin."
Who Benefits Most From BHAs?
If you struggle with acne, Maclellan recommends "looking for products with BHAs in them," as they go "deeper into the pores." Generally, BHAs are most suitable for "combination to oily skin," he suggests, especially those who are "acne-prone or have congested pores."
The most well-known type of BHA is salicylic acid, which you’ll find in a lot of acne-fighting products. "On top of treating acne, BHAs can also smooth the overall texture of your skin, even out skin tone, and reduce inflammation in the skin," Maclellan says. Because BHAs are "not humectants (hydrating) like AHAs," he warns that they can "dry out your skin" if not careful (a dermatologist can tell you exactly how much you need to use!)
Chacon agrees, and adds that BHAs are effectively used "to treat acne and sun damage." When it comes to anti-aging benefits, even though BHAs benefit all skin types (Chacon says they are "hydrating, make fine lines and wrinkles less visible, improve firmness, skin tone, and texture), she emphasizes that they are "especially beneficial to people with normal to oily skin," congested or enlarged pores, acne-prone skin, and "anyone with signs of skin aging."
Pro Tip— Don't Exfoliate Too Much!
We get it, the removal of dead, flaky skin can be very satisfying, but Maclellan warns not to exfoliate or use BHAs too much, as "the skin barrier can become damaged if you use too many chemical exfoliants like BHAs, leading to dry and peeling skin." Instead, he recommends using BHAs "once a week at night to be effective, without compromising your skin."
These products can also inadvertently "make you more susceptible to the sun, so it’s extra important to wear sunscreen in general, but especially after using products with BHAs," Maclellan continues (your dermatologist can tell you more!) Chacon concurs, and concludes that "the most crucial piece of everyday skincare is sun protection." No matter what other products you use, your skin "won't look its best if you don't initially protect it," she says. (Noted!)
