If your goal is to grow thicker and stronger eyelashes with the help of lash serums, doctors tell us that while this is possible, there still are notable and important drawbacks to consider. We checked in with dermatologists and other skincare and hair experts to learn more about how lash serum works, why many enjoy using it and another reason why you might want to reconsider giving it a go if you have more sensitive skin.
Read on for tips, suggestions and insight from Dr. Ekama Carlson, MD, FAAD, FACMS, dermatologist and Mohs surgeon and Dr. Roshan Vara, hair transplant surgeon and co-founder at The Treatment Rooms.
READ MORE: A Dermatologist Tells Us How To Grow Longer Eyelashes
First Off, How Do Lash Serums Work?
The normal life cycle of eyelashes, Carlson explains, has three phases: anagen (growth), catagen (transitional), and telogen (resting). "During the anagen phase, the eyelashes are actively growing and the hair follicle is thick and deeply rooted," she says, adding that this phase "normally lasts for 30-45 days in most people, after which the lash transitions to a resting or telogen phase."
In that one, she continues, the hair follicle "shrivels up over time, and eventually, the eyelash hair falls out, before again transitioning to the growth or anagen phase." If the anagen phase is prolonged with lash serum, she points out, "the result is that each eyelash continues to grow and thicken for a longer period, resulting in longer, thicker lashes."
Go with a lighter eyeliner shade
Many of us are so used to reaching for black eyeliner to create a winged look that it’s automatic and we don’t think about the effect it could be having. Granted, black liner is gorgeous and more dramatic — a perfect nighttime and party look. But if you’re doing your makeup for work or daytime events, a softer brown, taupe, or gray could appear more natural and open the eye area even more. Don’t be afraid to step out of the eyeliner box and experiment with other shades.
Important Lash Serum Drawbacks: Itchiness, Discoloration And More
According to Carlson, the main and most common drawbacks related to lash growth serums "range from mild side effects such as eye irritation, redness, dryness, darkening of the skin around the eye and excessive hair growth outside of the treated areas, to more severe or problematic side effects, such of loss of fat around the eye and thinning of the eyelid skin."
This, she warns, can "result in a hollowing and aging effect, darkening of light eyes over time, and cataracts (clouding of the lenses of the eye) which could cause blurry vision and other eye problems over time." Because of the range of side effects which differ depending on the product used, "one should always consult with a board-certified dermatologist before starting lash growth serums," Carlson emphasizes.
Other tips for more youthful-looking eyes
Eye makeup hacks for more youthful-looking eyes doesn’t start and end with eyeliner. To make the most of your beautiful eyes, Ito recommended these additional tips:
** Use a light-reflecting concealer under the eyes to brighten dark circles and make the eyes appear more awake. Ito suggests trying the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer or the Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat.
** Curl the eyelashes before applying mascara to open up the eyes and create a lifted appearance. Ito suggests the Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler for achieving a natural, long-lasting curl.
** Apply a light, shimmery eyeshadow to the inner corners of the eyes to create a brightening effect. Ito says she loves the L'Oréal Paris Infallible 24HR Eyeshadow in Iced Latte or the Urban Decay Eyeshadow in Sin.
** Groom and define the eyebrows to frame the eyes and create a more youthful appearance. Ito suggests using a tinted brow gel, like the Benefit Cosmetics Gimme Brow+ Volumizing Eyebrow Gel, for a natural, fuss-free look.
“By incorporating these eyeliner hacks and additional makeup tips, you can create a more youthful and rejuvenated appearance around the eyes, making you look and feel your best,” Ito says.
What Is The Best Type Of Lash Serum?
Overall, Carlson concludes that the most "effective and best-studied lash growth serums contain prostaglandins (PG) or similar compounds called prostaglandin analogs (PGA) as their active ingredient." Both PG and PGAs are drugs that are "primarily used to treat an eye disease called glaucoma."
A welcome side effect during use of these drugs in initial studies was "dramatic growth of longer, darker, and thicker eyelashes," she says, which is how lash serums came to exist."Lash serums containing PG are available only by prescription by a doctor, and can be obtained by visiting a dermatologist or plastic surgeon’s office," she advises, adding that "over-the-counter lash growth products are also available and may contain PGAs."
