Mascara is an essential finishing touch to complement any great winged eyeliner or smokey eyeshadow look. Its lifting and volumizing properties can give a more youthful appearance, but certain mistakes can have the opposite effect, such as applying clumpy mascara to the lower lashes if you’re over 40. To help you avoid this common mistake and achieve a more youthful look, we consulted professional makeup artists who shared six valuable tips.
Read on for suggestions and insight from Karol Young Moses, celebrity makeup artist and beauty expert, Alyssia Chang, founder of Prevail Beauty and makeup expert, Mary Winkenwerder, professional makeup artist, Vivi Mintara, pro MUA and the founder of Eye Makeup Lab and Natasha Moor, pro MUA and founder of Natasha Moor Cosmetics.
First Off, How Can Thick Mascara On Your Lower Lashes Age You?
According to Moses, a frequent mistake made by many women over 40 with mascara is the application of excessively thick mascara on the bottom lashes. "Dark bottom lashes can emphasize fine lines and wrinkles under the eyes," she explains. She notes that "applying mascara to the top lashes only will draw attention up and away from any areas of concern below."
Moses adds that when it comes to mascara for mature beauties, "more is not better," and it's essential to "apply at maximum 2-3 coats of mascara, focusing on the outer corners of the lashes." The outer corners of our eyes tend to move downward as we age, she points out, and the mascara "can often give you an eye lift effect when you apply it this way."
With that said, our experts stress avoiding thick mascara on the bottom lashes for the aforementioned reasons, and share six more pro tips to keep in mind if you want to really open up your eyes and take years off your look:
6 Pro Tips For A More Lifted, Youthful Lash Look
1. Check Your Mascara's Expiration Date
An essential tip Chang offers is to remember when you purchased the mascara you are using, and how to know when to toss it and stop using it for an optimal voluminous lash look. The easiest way to get an undesired clumpy look, Chang says, is to use a product that is older or expired.
"Mascara formulas are constantly being updated and improved, so if you’re still using the same mascara you’ve been using for years, it’s time to switch things up," she says.
"Newer mascaras often have better staying power and can give your lashes a fuller, more voluminous look," she adds.
Moses concurs, and says that "pumping the mascara wand to get down to the last drop" is "definitely an old school habit." Pumping, she notes, "only pushes air into the bottle and dries out your mascara even more."
Instead, she says to "simply swirl the wand around in the bottle to pick up what’s left." Moses also stresses that mascara users should remember that the "lifespan of any mascara ranges from about 4 weeks to a maximum of 3 months, depending on the brand."
2. Curl Your Lashes Before Applying Mascara
Eyelash curlers are mascara's best friend when it comes to sky-high lashes, Chang said. Failing to use this tool before applying your mascara can lead to that droopy look you're aiming to avoid. "Many women make the mistake of not curling their lashes before applying mascara," Chang explains.
This, she says, can "give your lashes a droopy, downward-facing appearance that can make you look tired and aged." She suggests "curling your lashes with an eyelash curler before applying mascara to help give them a more lifted look."
3. Heat Your Eyelash Curler Before Using It
The "worst thing" when it comes to mascara is when it starts "running onto your eyelids and into wrinkles," Mintara acknowledges. To avoid this, she suggests always "making an effort to use waterproof mascara," and also "heating your eyelash curlers before using them."
This step, she says, will "hold your lashes in place for much longer," and it will reduce the risk of transference from your lashes to your skin. She also points out that "you should wait for the eyelashes to cool a bit before applying the mascara," or you will heat up the product and "cause it to have a runnier consistency."
4. Add An Even Amount Of Product To Your Lashes
The best anti-aging mascara looks are evenly dispersed, not clumpy and subtle, Winkenwerder explains. "Rich mascara statements are gorgeous, and it takes a patient hand to create them," she says. "Take your time when applying mascara so just enough is applied to the right areas," she adds.
To do this, Winkenwerder suggests coating the lashes lightly. Then, "build mascara volume slowly with a clean wand and allow it to set for about 5 to 10 minutes before starting your day." Too much mascara at once makes lashes "look uneven," she stresses, even when they are "naturally full" and healthy.
When using a clean wand, Winkenwerder says it's important to "make sure the lashes are evenly coated with mascara, one coat at a time." Evenly applied mascara looks "healthy," and your lashes will look much better if you "build volume with mascara one step at a time for dynamic lash statements."
5. Use The Wiggling & Lifting Wand Technique
When it comes to actual application, Moor says to "first look down and apply mascara as close to your waterline as possible." She recommends "wiggling the wand and lifting."
Next, she says to "repeat, and then, using a slightly tapered wand" to lift the lashes on the "inner and outer corners" of your eyes to give the illusion of a lifted face.
This helps your face to "look more chiseled as it lifts the eye," she concludes, noting that this can have an anti-aging effect. "Another trick to make your eyes look bigger is by applying a liner on your lower lash line [not mascara] with a soft pencil at the base of your lashes, keeping your inner water line clear, meaning no dark liner there," Moor adds. "When your eyes appear more open, the effect is anti-aging."
6. Always Remove Your Mascara Before Bed
Perhaps the most crucial error of all to avoid when it comes to eye makeup is sleeping in it or not removing it fully before hitting the sheets. This, Chang stresses, can lead to more wrinkling, dark under-eyes and clogged pores, among other drawbacks. "Mascara can easily clump and flake off during the night, leaving you with raccoon eyes and bacteria on your skin in the morning," she notes.
"This can make your skin age and look much older than you actually are," she warns. Chang concludes that it's always important to "use a good makeup remover and take the time to gently remove all traces of mascara" before going to bed!
Your eyes will thank you in the morning, and your lashes can then be prepped again for another stunning look to last the day.
