This article has been updated since its initial publish date to include more expert insight.
Experimenting with makeup is fun at any age, and there are certainly plenty of great tricks, hacks and looks that beauties over 40 can rock to highlight their favorite features. On the other hand, there are also makeup trends that could inadvertently add years to your look and emphasize wrinkling or fine lines rather than the natural beauty of your eyes or bone structure.
We checked in with professional makeup artists to learn more about anti-aging makeup techniques, and which popular trends to avoid for a more youthful, radiant look overall.
Read on for tips, suggestions and insight from Kerrin Jackson, celebrity, film and television makeup artist and creator of The Makeup Refinery blog and Anastasia Tomchenko, beauty expert and co-founder and CPO of Glambook.
5 Makeup Trends To Skip Over 40 If You Want To Look Younger, MUAs Say
1. Heavy False Eyelashes or Lash Extensions
While Jackson acknowledges that false eyelashes and lash extensions in general can be "hugely beneficial to so many women’s faces," she says that the density and size of the lashes is "vital to avoid unintentionally aging yourself." A soft, subtle false eyelash can "add definition," she explains, and this helps to create the appearance of a larger, more open-eye shape.
However, she stresses, an overly thick or dense lash can "end up creating an unflattering shadow under the eye area." It can also "close your eye up," she warns, instead of having the opposite effect. "There is also something very unnatural about a super-thick, false eyelash that suits very few people in day-to-day life," Jackson points out. If you are looking to wear a heavy false lash or lash extension, she recommends "starting small and subtle."
If you’re ready to wear false eyelashes or commit to lash extensions, Jackson suggests "starting with smaller, subtle or even individual ones that may just fill in your own sparse lashes." Once you’re used to them, she continues, you can gradually go a bit bigger if you like. "Perhaps even start with a new mascara or false lashes that are a dark brown shade instead of black," she advises.
READ MORE: The Easiest Way To Apply Lash Extensions To Aging Eyes, According To A Lash Expert
2. Dark Lipstick
The trend of dark lipstick "comes and goes with much regularity these days," Jackson says, but she stresses that this fad will "never help anyone over 40 look younger." This, she adds, is due to simple principles of light. "Black or dark red shades absorb more light than lighter and brighter shades," she explains, and this means that "these lipstick shades actually make your lips appear thinner than they are." In turn, she warns, this "results in aging your face."
"The best way to avoid this aging illusion is by avoiding dark lipstick shades altogether," Jackson advises. In general, "aside from catwalk shows and theatrical events," she suggests that there is "very little need for dark to black shades of lipstick in our everyday lives." Perhaps, she adds, it is "better left for dress-up parties and Halloween time."
However, if you (like me!) absolutely love a dark, vampy 90s-esque lipstick shade Jackson recommends "coating it with a clear gloss over the top to help reflect some light off the dark color, and give your lips the illusion of appearing fuller via the reflection the clear gloss will give." Otherwise, she says to "stick with a lighter, brighter tone, such as a classic 1940s red, or warm-based lipstick." These are "far more flattering shades on all of us," she notes.
3. Metallic Eyeshadows or Shimmers
As seen on Euphoria, BeautyTok and elsewhere, "metallics are back," Jackson says, and "for us over 40s, that may not be such good news anymore." A shimmer eye shadow, she emphasizes, can be "particularly cruel to even the most slightly textured skin." Due to the light-reflecting flakes or ingredients in many shimmer products, this kind of eyeshadow can "end up highlighting every wrinkle, line or textured surface you usually spend your makeup time trying to soften," Jackson warns.
As a makeup artist, she says she "avoids metallic eyeshadows on older skin because shimmers and metallics are so harsh on textured and wrinkled complexions." They can "cause lines and wrinkles to look more pronounced" than they actually are, she continues. Jackson goes on to say that the best bet is to "avoid these products and stick with neutral mattes instead."
"If you must use a shimmer eye shadow, try a cream-based product that you can blend in softly," she goes on. This will be "far more flattering and flexible on your skin" than a powdery metallic or shimmery eyeshadow.
READ MORE: The One Eyeshadow You Should Avoid Over 40 Because It Ages You Instantly
4. Red Eyeshadow
One eye makeup color Jackson suggests skipping if you want to look younger is a red, scarlet or crimson one. "Red eyeshadows can add years to your face simply by making your eyes look tired, irritated and generally giving a look of being unwell." There is very little that is flattering about a red eyeshadow, Jackson stresses, and she always advises "avoiding red on the eyes altogether."
"I generally avoid red eyeshadow because it is such a tricky shade to get right on the eyes," Jackson points out. This, she says, is purely because of the "color of our blood," which is red. "What happens when we cry, or have an allergic reaction to something, rub our eyes, or get a bruise? Our skin and eyes go red," she adds. This, she concludes, is why using a red eyeshadow can inadvertently look like "you have been crying, have allergies or something unpleasant altogether is going on. It’s not a very appealing or flattering look." (Noted!)
5. Applying Concealer Directly Under Your Eyes
When it comes to choosing an under-eye concealer, it's important to apply it carefully, Tomchenko recommends. “The shade should either match your skin tone or be slightly lighter,” she says. “You should only apply concealer to the line where your dark circle starts, as applying concealer on the bags under your eyes or on wrinkles will make you appear older.”
She says to use your finger to apply the concealer as the warmth of your finger will help the cream melt and blend well. “Using a brush is not recommended as it may not work well with products that contain wax, since it melts only in warmth,” she continues. “Additionally, adding too much powder can also make you look older.”
The more you know!
