Of all the areas on the face that are most vulnerable to fine lines and wrinkles, the under-eye area takes the cake. There’s a perfectly good reason why it’s so difficult to combat the effects of aging under the eyes — this skin is more delicate than the rest of your face and thins faster, which reveals things like under-eye bags and discoloration much sooner than other areas of the face.
Under-eye bags and puffy eyes can be genetic, but they are also often a product of lifestyle choices. And there are ways that you can minimize the look of aging under the eyes, as Dr. Shereene Idriss tells us:
Here, a board-certified dermatologist reveals how to minimize the appearance of under-eye darkness, puffiness, and more.
Diagnose the Problem
To figure out how to treat your under-eye concerns, it’s important to first diagnose your issues. The skin under your eyes is much thinner and prone to signs of aging, but there’s also less production of sebum in this area, which can make the skin look crinkly and drier. A loss of elastin and collagen in this area also makes fine lines and discoloration show up more. Dr. Idriss says she often notices dark under-eye circles, puffiness, and fine lines under the eyes. And purchasing expensive eye creams isn’t always the way to go — many of these products simply don’t do what they claim.
What To Do: Dark Under-Eye Circles
Dr. Idriss stresses the importance of figuring out first if your under-eye discoloration is genetic or brought on by lifestyle choices (like not sleeping enough or drinking enough water) or aging. If it’s the former, there isn’t a whole lot that can be done with products alone to reverse this. But eye creams containing brightening ingredients like kojic acid, arbutin, and licorice root can help. Dr. Idriss says a dedicated eye cream isn’t always necessary either — you can reap the benefits of these ingredients from a good serum, as well.
What To Do: Enlarged Blood Vessels
If your under-eye discoloration is more the result of enlarged blood vessels under the eye, and this is creating shadows, one of the best ingredients you can use is a serum or eye cream that contains caffeine and peptides. You can even soak a green or black tea bag in water, put it in the fridge overnight, and place it under your eye in the morning. Finally, a cream with vitamin K can also help with discoloration that results from blood vessels.
What To Do: Puffiness
Puffiness can result from a few different things, including salty foods, crying, allergies, and late nights out. They can also be due to your fat pads under the eyes becoming permanently puffy. The only solution for this latter issue is surgery, according to Dr. Idriss, and eye creams won’t work. If your puffiness is due to external factors though, try an eye cream or serum that contains arnica and massage the lymphatic fluid under your eyes to help reduce fluid buildup.
Be Aware of Scam Products
Dr. Idriss warns against “gimmicks” like Plexiderm and other “tightening” products that she says promise to get rid of puffy eyes. Although some of these products can contain hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, the effects are incredibly temporary and can be disturbed the second you apply concealer or other makeup.
Before you go and spend money on tightening products, Dr. Idriss says they won’t help your skin in the long run
And finally: what can you do about fine lines and wrinkles under the eyes, which are very common? This particular issue may require more intervention than puffiness and dark circles. Dr. Idriss says to address her own fine lines she has relied on micro needling with radio frequency and Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) injections, both of which are designed to tighten the skin and rebuild collagen. If you’re looking for products to help, snag something that boosts collagen production like an eye cream formulated with retinol (straight-up retinol can be too irritating under the eye).
The under-eye area is one of the first to show signs of aging, but these tips can help you combat puffiness, under-eye circles, and fine lines. Save your money and don’t buy up every eye cream that makes big claims — instead, identify the cause of your under-eye concerns and treat them with tried-and-true ingredients and procedures.
