Derms Share 5 Moisturizer Ingredients And Mistakes To Avoid To Age Gracefully
1. Using Products With Alcohol
Often found in toners, facial peels, other skincare products and even makeup, alcohol is best to be avoided if you have naturally dry skin.
"Winter is a great time to get cozy and binge-watch your favorite shows, but it can also be a nightmare for your skin," Dr. Anna Chacon, MD, board-certified dermatologist and writer at My Psoriasis Team acknowledges. "Dry, tight skin is common in the fall and winter, and it's often worse if you live in a place with low humidity, and there is an ingredient you can avoid if you want to help your skin this winter— alcohol."
Chacon adds that "alcohol has been shown to irritate sensitive skin and make it drier." It can also "cause flaky patches on your face," as it has a naturally drying effect as it is. Instead of alcohol-based products, Dr. Cheryl Rosen, Director of Dermatology at BowTied Life recommends reaching for "a product that is hydrating and contains natural oils and moisturizers."
2. Choosing Moisturizers With Sodium Lauryl Sulfates (SLS)
Chacon stresses checking if your moisturizer contains Sodium Lauryl Sulfates (SLS), what she explains is a "common ingredient in soaps and facial cleansers," known to "irritate sensitive skin and cause itchiness or redness." Rosen adds that this "harsh detergent" is used in many personal care products, but it "can strip away the protective lipid layer of the skin, leading to dryness and accelerated aging."
This ingredient also might be in your shower gel or soap, Chacon adds, and to avoid the negative effects of this drying ingredient on your skin, she suggests "switching to something gentler," like a "coconut oil-based product, instead."
3. Applying Face Creams With Fragrances
We're not talking about perfume here, as oftentimes, toners, cleansers, body washes, moisturizers and other products can feature an irritating fragrance that can lead to red, itchy and patchy skin (or exacerbate these conditions if your skin is that dry already)."Fragrance can cause irritation and allergic reactions in some people (including those with asthma)," Chacon notes, so she says to "make sure any skincare products or body washes you use don't contain fragrance as an ingredient."
Clinical dermatologist Dr. Enrizza P. Factor, writer at My Eczema Team agrees, and urges to "choose a toner that contains hyaluronic acid to keep your skin hydrated," as opposed to one with a fragrance that can dry it out more. "Use toners that are gentle, and do not contain irritants like parabens, artificial colors or fragrances," she says.
4. Combining Moisturizer And Other Skincare Products With Retinol & Salicylic Acid
Many of us use retinol in our regular skincare routines for its anti-aging benefits as well as salicylic acid-based products to target and prevent acne.
Both are intense, all-encompassing products that aim to either smooth fine lines or eliminate acne, and combining the two (whether one or both is in your moisturizer) can run the risk of drying out your skin, dermatologist Ksenia Sobchak of Loxa Beauty explains. “These products can greatly reduce acne and improve the skin’s appearance when used singly, however, combining them can cause overdrying that irritates your skin, worsening the signs,” she says.
The extreme drying may make the skin increase oil production that can develop a vicious dryness cycle and acne, she adds. Instead of mixing them, Sobchak recommends using retinol at night before bed, and salicylic after waking up in the morning. This means that you should not use a salicylic acid-based cleanser and then apply retinol directly afterwards, for example, since giving your skin enough time to space the two out is essential.
5. Pairing A Retinol Moisturizer With Benzoyl Peroxide
If you want to have a successful anti-aging routine while also preventing acne, Sobchak also advises against using Benzoyl peroxide-based moisturizers either immediately before or after applying retinoid items. “If you combine retinoid and Benzoyl peroxide, one formulation overpowers the other,” she says.
For instance, she notes that Benzoyl peroxide can make the retinoid molecule inactive, thus interfering with the positive influence on fighting acne. Sobchak concludes, “why not use the two products separately, such as Benzoyl in the morning and retinoid towards evening?” It’s all about timing and allowing your skin the chance to prepare for the other product, rather than using everything all at once.
The Bottom Line
Overall, when it comes to dry skin, Rosen reiterates that avoiding the aforementioned ingredients are key to not exacerbate patchiness, itchiness and redness.
If you're looking for skincare products and moisturizers that will help to soothe and provide moisture to dry skin, Rosen recommends including hyaluronic acid serums in your routine that "help to lock in moisture and keep your skin hydrated," oil-based cleansers that "won't strip your skin of its natural oils and can actually help to balance oily skin," and lotions and moisturizers that contain ceramides, as "these help to repair the protective barrier of your skin, keeping moisture in and irritants out," she concludes.