beauty

The Popular Anti-Aging Ingredient Which May Be Making Your Skin Worse, According To Derms

September 17, 2021 by Robyn Turk
shefinds | beauty

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We all depend on our skincare products to replenish and rejuvenate our skin. So it can come as a huge surprise to learn that certain beauty products may be having the opposite affect on your skin. And this may be the case for you.

There are a ton of ingredients that are marketed to repair and hydrate your skin, but dermatologists know they aren’t as beneficial as they seem. In fact, there are some products you should avoid at all costs because they make skin worse.

And according to Dr. Michael Somenek, board-certified facial plastic surgeon from Washington, DC, the worst skincare ingredient of all is retinyl palmitate.

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retinyl palmitate worst skincare ingredient

Many people use retinol in their skincare regimen to reverse the signs of aging. And while retinol is good for your skin, retinyl palmitate is not an eqiuvalent altnernative.

"Retinyl palmitate is a form of vitamin A, which is retinol’s less aggressive 'relative,'" Dr. Somenek explained. "The ingredient functions as an exfoliator, promotes skin cell turnover, can unclog pores and improve skin tone."

He continued, "Ultimately, the purpose is to fortify the dermis to decelerate the formation of wrinkles. While all of this is positive from an anti-aging standpoint, a 2013 study showed that this ingredient might speed the development of skin tumors and lesions when applied to the skin in the presence of sunlight. In sunlight, retinyl palmitate can form small molecules called free radicals that damage DNA."

retinyl palmitate worst skincare ingredient

Dr. Somenek advices replacing any retinyl palmitate products with those that use bakuchiol.

"[Bakuchiol" is a vegan skin care ingredient found in the seeds and leaves of a plant," he said. "It is also a potent anti-oxidant and can minimize skin discoloration, and has a calming, firming effect on the skin. Unlike retinyl palmitate, bakuchiol is stable in sunlight and won’t make skin photo-sensitive. Be sure to wear your SPF of 30 or greater whenever you are outdoors."

You can integrate bakuchiol into your routine with an affordable facial serum or day cream. We like Herbivore's Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum ($19), or the INKEY List Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Moisturizer ($9.99).

Or if you want something with retinol, find some of our favorite picks here.

Author:

Robyn Turk is a style and beauty writer, contributing to the SheFinds team. Her work has appeared in StyleCaster, Business Insider, Refinery29, DailyMail and others.

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