The first thing we need to remember about collagen (and elastin) is that both reside in the dermis, which is the layer of skin right below the upper layer — the epidermis. When we are younger, the epidermis turns itself over quicker, which explains why a pimple you have in your teens heals a lot faster than one you get in your forties, which feels like it lingers forever.
Because the epidermis isn’t naturally turning over as fast, your skin can also become thinner (a crepey texture) as you age. Subsequently, your dermis is losing collagen and elastin beginning in your twenties and continuing at a more rapid pace at or around menopause and beyond.
What Makes Collagen Break Down
Age may make collagen naturally break down, but your lifestyle habits can contribute to a more rapid decline in collagen and elastin. For starters, smoking is not only a risk to your health and life, but it can make your skin thinner and more sallow and yellow-toned. If you’re a sun bather, it’s a really good idea to quit that habit as well become UV rays break down collagen. A poor diet with a lot of sugar and alcohol can break down collagen, and moderation is key here.
Other contributors to collagen breakdown include hormonal shifts during menopause, prolonged use of steroid medications, which can thin the skin, and high cortisol levels from stress.
How Can You Boost Collagen Levels Through Skincare?
Certain skincare products can help boost collagen and protect your skin against thinning, but they may not be the ones you think. For example: a moisturizer or serum that scream “collagen” on the packaging may be a nice, hydrating moisturizer, but that word doesn’t automatically mean it’s going to infuse your skin with collagen and all of your problems will be solved.
The number one skincare product that you can use to prevent thinning is sun protection. Applying sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day is important — even if the UV levels are low that day, getting into the habit of applying it is important.
The second important skincare product is retinol. Retinol helps cellular turnover in the epidermis, but also helps boost collagen in the dermis and boost the volume beneath your skin. There are a number of different retinols you can use (including prescription and over-the-counter), but talking to your dermatologist is a good first step to find what works best for you.
Peptides are short-chain amino acids that are the building blocks of collagen, and there are a number of moisturizers and serums that contain them. Another great ingredient to add to your skincare? An antioxidant like vitamin C serum, which prevents collagen breakdown AND helps lighten discoloration and give you and overall brighter complexion.
All of these skincare products can work better to boost your collagen than collagen cream or even a collagen powder that you add to water and other drinks.
But what about skincare treatments? There are a few that Dr. Idriss recommends for boosting collagen. Her at-home treatment recommendations include red light therapy. At-home microneedling isn’t as deep and effective as what can be done in an office — and the last thing you want is to be too aggressive with your skin at home and damage it.
Don’t sleep on foods, either. Incorporating foods like citrus fruits, leafy greens, eggs, fatty fish, berries, and bone broth can all help your health and your skincare goals — and that includes boosting more collagen.
The goal is never not to age, but with a few good dermatologist-approved tips in mind, you can age slower.