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Retinol is one of the most well known skincare ingredients for reversing signs of aging, often integrated into beauty routines later in life to fight back against existing fine lines and wrinkles, creating smoother, younger looking skin. However, it may actually be detrimental waiting for fine lines to develop before beginning to use retinol, and instead you can use this ingredient as a preventative measure to aging, rather than as a magic cure to turn back the clock.
Collagen production is essential to achieving bright and even skin, and retinol is excellent for sparking further production under the surface of the skin. Wondering when you should begin using this anti-aging powerhouse to keep wrinkles at bay? We spoke with dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner to give us the full rundown on retinol–this is what he had to say.
Rather than waiting until you can distinguish visible signs of aging to begin your retinol routine, Zeichner suggests starting with this powerhouse ingredient in your 20’s when your skin is still smooth and bright. Retinol works by increasing collagen production as it binds to receptors in the skin, and this can help to maintain the elasticity of your complexion.
However, as you age your skin naturally begins to produce less collagen, leading to sagging skin and wrinkles. “We know that our skin's ability to produce collagen starts to decline around the age of 30, which is why I recommend starting to use retinol at this time,” Zeichner says. “I even prefer my patients to start using retinol in their 20s, when skin cells are functioning optimally. The skin in your 20s is the foundation on which you will age after you hit 30.”
Beginning preventative use of retinol before you’ve developed wrinkles is a great way to strengthen your complexion and allow you to continue to produce collagen consistently for ageless skin without procedures. Zeichner likens collagen to the frame of a mattress, supporting the skin from wrinkling and damage. “It's far better to prevent wrinkling to begin with than trying to undo them afterwards,” he says.
“Retinol can certainly both treat wrinkles and minimize the risk of developing them. So I consider retinol to be both a reparative and a preventative skin care ingredient.” You should begin using your retinol in the evenings as it can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays and put you at a heightened risk of sunburn, and Zeichner even suggests mixing a pea sized drop in with your moisturizer to maintain balance in your skin.
While retinol has significantly more benefits than downsides, there are still potential side effects to be aware of when you first integrate this ingredient into your routine. Ultimately your skin will adjust to the use of retinol, but when you first begin using it, you may experience some visible irritation on the surface of the skin which can be easily solved by purchasing a gentle retinol serum or slowly increasing your usage so as not to overload your complexion.
Zeichner notes that the first 2-4 weeks are when you’re most likely to experience any dryness, redness, or irritation, so keeping your skin hydrated as you begin to use retinol more frequently will also be useful for preserving your appearance. “Retinol does not play nicely with other ingredients so you need to limit the other products that you're using at the same time. I usually recommend mixing it only with a bland moisturizer,” says Zeichner. “Retinol can make your skin sun sensitive so it's important to wear sunscreen every morning to prevent a potential sunburn.”
Instead of waiting until signs of aging have already begun to appear on your skin, start using retinol earlier in life to maintain consistent collagen production without fear of premature fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol, while strong and sometimes harsh, is one of the best skincare ingredients for aging and a valuable addition to any beauty routine, regardless of your age.
Mixed with moisturizer to help offset the drying properties, retinol will help to smooth your skin, eliminating existing wrinkles and preventing new ones from forming, making it a powerhouse in skincare and an important staple in any routine.
