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A Derm Tells Us How To Treat Fine Lines, Crow’s Feet And Wrinkles Around The Eyes For A More Youthful Appearance Over 50

February 2, 2024 by Marissa Matozzo

 
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As we age, our skin loses moisture and becomes drier, leading to the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin near the eyes.

Seeking advice from skincare experts and dermatologists, we discovered crucial products for women over 50 to include in their routine to achieve a healthier and hydrated look, along with ingredients to prioritize for a supple appearance.

Read on for tips, suggestions and insight from Dr. David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist at IDRISS Dermatology in New York City and Kristin Gunn, medical aesthetician, skincare expert and owner of Beaux Medspa.

6 Essential Eye Skincare Products & Ingredients For Women Over 50

1. Sunscreen / SPF

Kim explains that the most important skincare product for protecting the delicate, aging skin around your eyes from the sun's harmful rays is sunscreen. "It helps prevent [additional] fine lines and hyperpigmentation," he adds. He suggests "finding one that doesn't irritate your eyes and using it every day." He recommends a product like Lightsaver's Activated Mineral Sunscreen, which is approved by the National Eczema Association (NEA) and "doesn't irritate the eyes."

Sunscreen is vital when you want to prevent additional wrinkles from forming, and to treat any you already have, since "UVA and UVB rays break down collagen, which leads to deeper fine lines and wrinkles." Sunscreen "with SPF 30 or higher is recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)," he adds, and using it daily in this area can create a noticeable difference.

2. Eye Cream with Peptides

In your 50s,applying an eye cream every morning and evening "becomes an essential component of your skincare routine" when you want a more noticeable glow under and around your peepers, Gunn acknowledges. "As we age, the skin around the eyes tends to become thinner, drier, and more prone to wrinkles and fine lines," she notes.

With that said, she recommends "looking for eye creams that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and peptides." Kim agrees, and says that a blend of peptides "helps with collagen production and softens fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes." These eye cream ingredients, Gunn adds, "improve skin elasticity and reduce sagging." She suggests trying a gentle and hydrating cream like LaRoche Pigmentclar Eye Cream.

3. Moisturizer

For mature beauties, using a heavier moisturizer "becomes crucial as the skin undergoes significant changes associated with aging," Gunn says. During this phase, "the skin tends to lose moisture and natural oils more rapidly, resulting in increased dryness and a loss of elasticity," she explains. A heavier moisturizer provides "more intense hydration and helps to lock in moisture, preventing further water loss."

These formulations "often contain richer ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and fatty acids" that nourish and replenish the skin barrier, she continues. These "not only addresses dryness, but also help to improve the skin's texture and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles." She suggests a cream like LaRoche Posay Toleriane Double Repaid Cream and Kim points to Augustinus Bader's Rich Cream.

4. Retinol Serum

Retinols and retinoids become "increasingly valuable after the age of 50" when it comes to skincare, according to Gunn. "As we cross this milestone, our skin's natural renewal process tends to slow down, leading to the development of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven texture," she says. "Retinols, derived from vitamin A, work wonders by stimulating collagen production, promoting cell turnover, and encouraging the formation of new, healthier skin cells," she points out.

This, she says, results in "improved elasticity, diminished wrinkles," and a more even complexion. Additionally, retinoids can "combat age spots and address concerns such as sun damage," contributing to a smoother, more youthful complexion. Retinol is commonly used in over-the-counter skincare products in concentrations ranging from 0.05–2%, she says.

Gunn advises that "it’s best to start at the lowest dose available and gradually work your way up." Kim adds that "for retinol, you should start with medium strength (0.5%) and build your way up to prescription strength." Gunn concurs and shares that "very few drugstore retinol products reveal their retinol concentration," so it's optimal to find one that does.

5. Vitamin C Serum

After washing your face in the morning (and before applying sunscreen or moisturizer), Gunn notes that using vitamin C serum can brighten your under-eye area over time. "Start your day with a quality vitamin C serum," she advises. This, she says, works to "protect, repair, and elevate your skin's natural glow."

Vitamin C will also "help with reducing wrinkles, safeguarding collagen, and promoting healing." It also helps tackle "hyperpigmentation and brightens your complexion," Gunn says. "Vitamin C can appear on the ingredient label as several different names, but the one you want is L-ascorbic acid, which is the most effective," she points out.

6. AHAs Cleanser

After you take your makeup off and want to ensure you've had a deep and thorough clean, Gunn recommends using a cleanser with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) for a more supple appearance. "Integrating a cleanser with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) into your skincare routine when using retinol is beneficial for several reasons," she says. She recommends using this every morning and evening.

"Retinol promotes skin cell turnover and renewal, but can sometimes lead to an accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface," Gunn notes. AHAs, such as glycolic or lactic acid, act as gentle exfoliants, she says, "helping to slough off these dead cells, thereby preventing potential clogging of pores and promoting a smoother complexion." The combination of retinol and AHAs can result in a more "radiant and refined skin texture" over 50, she adds.

The Bottom Line

When it comes to a hydrating, healthy and beneficial skincare routine, Gunn believes that "it's never too early or too late to get started." The key is "designing the perfect regime for your unique situation," she suggests. With that said, it's best to "start with what you will actually use daily and make it your new routine."

Then, you can add steps every couple weeks so it becomes a habit. "So many people are sold 5-6 products at once and it can be overwhelming to your routine, wallet and skin," Gunn says. She concludes that you can always "change 1-2 things at a time" when it comes to you skincare routine and eye area care, and it's already a "step in the right direction."  

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