Any healthy anti-aging skincare routine requires a well-balanced diet, ample hydration, regular exercise, a consistent sleep schedule and of course, products to help you attain a youthful-esque glow. With that said, it can feel overwhelming to begin shopping for anti-aging skincare products, especially with so many out there each advertising different benefits. We checked in with skincare experts to learn more about one common product and ingredient that may not be as effective as it appears. Read on for advice, tips and suggestions from board-certified dermatologist Dr. Debra Jaliman, M.D. and skincare expert Dr. Simran Sethi, M.D. who detail what to look out for instead to support an optimal complexion.
Why Collagen Creams May Not Be Worth The Price Tag
Along with cleansers, serums and moisturizers, skin creams are an essential part of many people’s morning and evening routines. Collagen is the protein responsible for elastic, stretchy skin and healthy joints, and also listed as an ingredient in many skincare products. While many experts recommend taking collagen supplements and eating collagen-boosting foods like bone broth, berries, vegetables, etc., our sources advise against picking up any “collagen-boosting” creams as these may not be as useful as they appear.
“There are some creams that contain collagen for anti-aging. It’s too big to penetrate the skin and it’s just a waste of money,” says Jaliman. Instead of these products, she recommends looking for creams “with peptides or pentapeptides,” which contains 5 vital amino acids linked together. “Matrixyl is a trademarked peptide that is also effective and found in skincare and anti-aging products,” she adds.
Sethi agrees. The reason why brands that promote collagen creams are misleading, she says, is because the collagen protein has a molecular weight that is “too large to penetrate through the top layer of skin,” then through the basement membrane, and into the dermis. “Any collagen-stimulating ingredients would need to be capable of signaling the deep dermal level to have any rebuilding effect,” she says, and notes that these types of creams do not.
Collagen creams are simply unnecessary, she says, because they are not able to access or penetrate into the dermis since they are molecularly too large. “Collagen peptides, which is what collagen breaks into within the dermis, is a better option,” she says, also echoing Jaliman’s tip. “Vitamin A, C and Linoleic acid are great options to optimize skin renewal and activate collagen protein production,” Sethi concludes.
