Is Vitamin C Really Effective For Anti-Aging? We Asked Dermatologists

How can vitamin C be incorporated into a skincare routine? 

Vitamin C is a must for preventing environmental-related skin aging and should be used first in the morning and paired with sunscreen for optimal protection throughout the day, Dr. Michon says. “A wide range of vitamin C products are available, like serums and moisturizers, but it is important to understand the effectiveness of vitamin C in each product,” he says. “Typically, it is recommended by skincare professionals to use a vitamin C serum with a concentration of at least 10%. However, it is also incredibly important to apply sunscreen after applying vitamin C serum and moisturizer in order to protect the skin against free radicals effectively.”

It’s also a good idea not to wait after washing your skin to apply your vitamin C. “Vitamin C serums are best applied generously to freshly washed skin,” Dr. Nakra says. “After the serum dries down, a high-quality medical grade moisturizer should be applied to ‘lock in’ the vitamin C —  this enhances penetration as well as its duration of action.” 

Should any skin types avoid it (rosacea, sensitive skin, etc)? 

Anyone can use vitamin C, but paying attention to the percentage that you apply is important if you have more sensitive skin. As it turns out, hyperpigmentation from acne blemishes or rosacea can be improved with high-potency vitamin C serum and skin-lightening products containing kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and niacinamide, Dr. Michon says. “The majority of good vitamin C serums contain between 10-20% L-ascorbic acid combined with vitamin E to ensure that the product is safe yet effective for the skin. Serums with a lower potency of L-ascorbic acid (closer to 10%) are most effective for those prone to irritation. Since many people have different skin types, it is essential that each person caters adequately to their skin needs.” 

What role does oral vitamin C play for better skincare outcomes? 

Despite all this talk about topical vitamin C serums, you should absolutely keep up with your vitamin C supplements and incorporating foods like citric fruits into your diet. But don’t confuse the benefits of oral vitamins with topical ones. “Oral Vitamin C certainly has health benefits, but the amount that reaches the skin through the blood circulation (after being absorbed by the digestive system) is infinitesimally small,” Dr. Nakra says. “Basically, [there’s] no benefit for your skin with even large doses of oral Vitamin C. The best way to treat your skin with Vitamin C is direct application with a product that is able to keep the ingredient stable until it hits the skin.”

Vitamin C is a powerhouse topical ingredient in skincare that can be purchased at many different price points — but as these experts remind us, do check for concentration levels. Or visit a dermatologist first to get their opinion on a formula that’s perfect for your skin.