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When it comes to skincare, there are a wide range of avenues you can explore in order to achieve a glowing complexion. Depending on your skin’s needs you may find great success going for a retinol serum to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, but the severity of which your skin shows your age can inform which treatment you may be inclined to opt for.
Taking one step past simply using skincare products to smooth your complexion, more intensive treatments such as Botox, fillers, or micro-needling may become of interest if you feel the basic route isn’t allowing you to achieve the results you’re after. While needle based treatments may seem intimidating, educating yourself on the procedure you’re about to undergo is one of the most important steps in deciding if it’s a good fit for you.
Micro-needling has risen in popularity over the last several years as a collagen producing treatment for wrinkles, but how exactly does it work? We checked with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Heather Downes, MD to answer your burning questions about the procedure, price, and results, so you can be fully informed before taking the leap into the next level of skincare. Keep reading to find out all you need to know about microneedling, and if it’s right for you.
What Is Micro-Needling?
Intended to boost collagen production in the skin, micro-needling is a procedure where small needles penetrate the skin at varying depths to increase elasticity in your complexion. “During a microneedling treatment, a dermatologist uses a handheld electrical device that creates thousands of microscopic needle punctures in the surface of the skin. When the device is turned on, the needles oscillate in and out with rapid speed. The dermatologist can turn a dial on the device to control the depth at which the needles pierce the skin surface, up to a maximum depth of 2.5 mm,” explains Downes. Not only can micro-needling help produce more collagen in your skin, but it can also double as a treatment for acne scarring, as well as existing fine lines and wrinkles.
How Does It Work?
As the needles puncture your skin, tiny injuries are created which your body will then work to heal. “As a response, your skin releases growth factors to heal, which triggers new collagen to grow. The result is firmer, smoother skin,” says Downes. “New collagen grows slowly over six months and then lasts for many years.” As you grow older your body naturally begins to produce less collagen, so a procedure such as micro-needling can work to reinvigorate the skin, promoting increased elasticity and fighting against wrinkles that may develop.
Does It Hurt?
According to Downes, if the skin isn’t numbed before the procedure you can expect some pain, but your dermatologist will more than likely apply a topical numbing cream before beginning. “Patients should apply prescription-strength numbing cream for 30-60 minutes prior to the procedure. Most patients tolerate the procedure well, however some parts of the face, such as the forehead and upper lip, are more sensitive than other areas.” However the treatment typically does not last long, so if you do experience discomfort, just know it’s short lived.
How Long Does It Take?
You can expect one micro-needling session to take around 15 minutes to complete the entire face. However, Downes notes that she also often treats the neck, adding an additional 10 minutes to the procedure. It’s important to note that one session may be all you need, as the collagen that micro-needling will produce is apt to last for years.
Is It Safe?
Thankfully you have nothing to fear when it comes to your micro-needling procedure, and it’s completely safe when completed by a dermatologist. “To prevent infection, we clean the patient's skin by washing their face with soap. Then we use alcohol wipes to remove oil from the skin surface. Lastly, in patients who are prone to cold sores, they are given a prophylactic dose of an antiviral such as valacyclovir to prevent a possible cold sore outbreak,” says Downes.
If you’re considering trying an at-home treatment, Downes warns that this may potentially put you at risk for infection. It’s less likely that the procedure will be as sterile as it should be, and needles can even grow dull over time, making the process less effective.
Is It Worth It?
Costing anywhere between $200-$700 a session, micro-needling is a worthwhile investment that can make lasting changes in the texture and appearance of your skin. You can expect reduced acne scarring and increased elasticity as a result of this procedure, effectively turning back the clock on your complexion. “Skin thickness increases, and remember, thick skin is young skin. As we age, our skin thins out. Microneedling causes the epidermis (the top layer of skin) and the dermis (the lower layer of skin) to increase in thickness,” says Downes.
As for how often you’ll need to get your micro-needling done, this may vary from patient to patient. “Many of my patients repeat their microneedling treatment on a quarterly (every 3 months) basis. At each subsequent visit I have to dial the needles to a deeper depth in order to achieve pinpoint bleeding, because the skin has grown thicker,” she says.
What Can You Expert Afterwards?
In terms of healing, your skin may be sensitive and visibly irritated directly following your micro-needling treatment. “You will look like you have a sunburn when you leave the doctor's office. We advise patients to keep their skin clean and not wear makeup the rest of the day. Rather, they should apply a bland emollient such as petroleum jelly,” says Downes. “Even better, I prefer patients to apply Alastin Skin Nectar which is a topical product with peptides that stimulate further elastin and collagen growth.” However, by 4-6 weeks you should see visible changes in the brightness and evenness of your skin tone.
